Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup needs careful preparation and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will require to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must select the type of shower that you wish to set up. It is essential to establish whether the selected shower can coping with particular systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are created to be flexible to various water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).
It is also important to take into account the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very basic to set up. Nevertheless, although the hose connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. Furthermore, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really low-cost choice and no extra plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with bothersome temperature level control choices.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly mentioned mixers. They also require extra pipes of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from becoming too hot. One of the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electric pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water warmed straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit enables the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps in other places in use within the household. A significant downside of electric showers is that the control knob only enables the choice of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this problem is dealt with in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if a rapid or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the supply of water. In order to protect the pipelines, they must be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there ought to be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water tank can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you pick this option, the main and distribution pipelines will also need to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it needs to be linked plumbing company into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to keep maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. Additionally, by reducing making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the supply of water. You can achieve this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or neglecting regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to reliable plumbing company galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall remains in place.
# Not effectively lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.